With the introduction of Loki variants on the new Disney+ series, all you need is the classic golden horned helmet head piece to put together your own version of what your variant would look like. I’ve created a free Loki helmet template and tutorial to get you started. The rest of the look is up to you!
If you prefer to purchase a ready-made helmet, click here to check out the ones on Amazon that you can get for $30-$50. But you know it’s always cooler if you make it yourself 😉
Making a Loki Helmet
For the variants, there is no rule on what exactly the helmet has to look like as long as it has the basic Loki elements. This template is totally adjustable- you can make it bigger or smaller, have one horn like Sylvie, or stick with two. You can make big horns or little ones, though I suggest sticking with the small to medium size to keep it light.
The materials I used are craft foam, Worbla, Scupley III, hot glue, headband and gold spray paint. I prefer to put my headpieces on a headband, but you can easily use an elastic band as well. The main parts can be made from foam, any kind of thermoplastic, or even cardboard. The horns can be made from any kind of modeling clay that hardens.
Loki Helmet Template and Tutorial
Step 1: Print the template on paper and cut it out.
Let’s get started! First you’ll need the template: Click here for the Free Loki Helmet Template Download
Click the pic or the link to download the .pdf file from Dropbox. You’ll want to download it from there and not just right click the picture here or it won’t be the right size. When you print, make sure you change your layout to landscape. Depending on your margins, it may say part of it is out of the printable area. Just go ahead and print it. Usually it will print all of it anyway.
Step 2: Trace paper template onto your preferred medium. I used craft foam as the base, with Worbla on top.
I use a combo of thin craft foam with Worbla on top, because it makes it nice and solid. You can actually just make this only using the foam as long as you prime it before painting. If using the Worbla, it makes it so it is ready to paint. The black Worbla is smoother than the tan, so I usually use the black if I have it.
Step 3: Cover craft foam with Worbla while it is flat
If you are doing the Worbla/Foam combo, heat the Worbla up using a heat gun and lie it on top of the craft foam. Use something with a straight edge, like a credit card, to drag across the surface and get out all the air bubbles. Press down a little extra around all the edges to seal it.
Step 4: Heat Worbla/Foam combo and form around head
Once you’ve bonded the two pieces together, heat it up again and bend it around your head while wearing the headband.
Step 5: Attach 2nd piece. If using Worbla, you can heat it up and stick it on. Otherwise, use an adhesive.
Once you have it curved, heat the smaller piece and stick it to the big piece. You can do the Foam/Worbla combo for this piece if you want more dimension. I did this one with just Worbla. The reason I didn’t stick it on before shaping it is because I was worried the top pieces would get too floppy when heating it the second time.
Step 6: Attach it to your headband (or elastic)
Once you have the helmet shaped, hot glue it to the headband. I do this by covering the headband in hot glue, putting it on my head, and then sticking on the helmet piece. If using elastic, you can attach the elastic to the sides with glue.
Step 7: Make the Horns
I used Sculpey III for this, but you can use any modeling compound. To make the horns equal, just cut off equal parts of modeling compound before you start molding. Roll it into a ball to get it smooth, then roll it into a snake and taper one end. You can go big or small! Horn size is all up to your own preference. (Just ignore the two smaller rolled pieces in the photo. I ended up not using them. ) The way I made sure they were equal in size was to line them up in a heart shape.
Step 8: Set the horns
Either bake your horns if using Sculpey, or let them dry and harden if using a different type clay. Sculpey bakes at 275 degrees for 15 minutes for smaller pieces. It would take longer for larger or thicker horns. Let it sit for a bit after taking it out of the oven because it will be hot.
Step 9: Attach the Loki horns
When the horns are ready, you can attach them with hot glue or your preferred adhesive.
Step 10: Reinforce the horns attachment
I used a few Worbla scraps and heated them up, rolled them into a snake and wrapped them around the horns base to make sure they were securely attached to the helmet. The cool thing about Worbla is that you can use every bit of it, and also reuse it even after you’ve shaped it. I save ALL my Worbla scraps because they are great for small details like this. For this, I got the scraps very hot, rolled them into a line, reheated that and then wrapped it around the base of the horns.
Step 11: Paint it gold, add details.
I used a metallic gold spray paint on this, no primer and no sanding. I accidentally painted the inside gold, which I don’t recommend, because the paint comes off on your head! Whenever I do that, I usually glue a strip of fabric across the forehead area afterwards. I also add some depth to the details by painting a thin line of black paint around any 3-D element.
If you use this template to make your Loki helmet, please tag @sewgeekmama or @geekmamasblog on Instagram so I can see it and share!
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About the Author
Candy Keane is a digital content creator and long-time cosplayer, most well-known for being on the cover of the Star Wars documentary Jedi Junkies. After making costumes professionally for over a decade, she now writes about about geek culture and mom life, and continues to cosplay for fun, while sharing her love of costumes on Instagram @SewGeekMama. Her first children’s book, I’m Going to My First Comic Convention, was published in 2020 and won a Story Monsters Approved award for Excellence in Literature.